Shoe construction



Jan. 3, 5 TROY 1,893,007

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Sept. 27, 1950 INVENTOR.

Patented Jan. 3, 1933 PATENT OFFICE SEYMOUR TROY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Application filed September 27, 1930. Serial No.484,808.

5 proved construction and arrangement of parts for shoes of thecharacter described, which is strong, durable, eificient and readilymanufactured.

More specifically, an object of the invention is to provide an improvedconstruction for soles in turned shoes whereby the uppers may be sewedon to the ball, shank and seatparts in a durable and secure mannerwithout liability to excessive stresses in the parts.

It is also an object to provide a sole construction in which the balland seat parts are united by a relatively long, narrow shank to whichthe uppers are stitched from opposite sides by means of aninterlocklngstitch.

Other objects of the invention Wlll in part be obvious and will in partappear hereinafter.

The invention accordingly comprises the features of construction,combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts, which will beexemplified in the constructions hereinafter set forth and the scope ofthe application of which will be indicated in the claims.

For a fuller understanding of the nature and objects of the invention,reference should be had to the following detailed description taken inconnection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. l is a fragmentary View, mainly in section, showing theconstruction in a vertical plane, of a ladys shoe of the turned variety,embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the sole construction employed in Fig. 1, theupper bemg cut away;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary view showing the shank portion of thesole illustrated in Fig. 2 and depicting more in detail the interlockedstitch employed;

Figs. at and 5 are fragmentary sectional views taken along the linesl--4 and 55 respectively, in Fig. 3.

Referring now to the drawing and particularly to Fig. 1, denotesgenerally a sole having a ball portion 11, to which an upper 12 isstitched in the usual manner, the sole also having a shank portion 13,which extends rearwardly and merges into an enlarged or seat portion 14,to which a heel 15 is attached in the usual manner. The hind quarter 16of the upper here illustrated is secured to the rear portion of the soleindependently of the front upper. While this construction is convenientin the type of ladys shoe here illustrated, it is by no means essentialand comprises no part of the present invention. The hind quarter 16envelopes a counter 17 that is sewed on to the sole, together with theusual lining, indicated at 18. The front upper also preferably has alining as indicated at 18.

In accordance with the practice of the present invention, the sole isblanked out from any suitable sole material, for example, from oaktannedfull leather, is shaped to have a form adapted to have the upperssecured thereto by stitching, the shank being shaped to aiford aninterlocked stitch Without the use of channels, as more fully isexplained hereinafter. A suitable shape is shown in Fig. 2 where theball 11 is of the usual shape and is provided with channels 20 and 21out around each side of the same, these channels converging and endingat a point 22, where the shank ordinarily merges into the ball. The rearor seat portion 14: of the sole is similarly formed and has a channel 23run nin around its edge in a generally oval or elliptical contourconverging toward a point 24, where the shank joins the seat. Thus it isseen that the channels are not cut into the shank portion 13 of the solehere employed, thereby providing a connecting piece for the front andrear portions of the sole which does not have its strength impaired. Theshank is also relatively narrow so that the stitch employed may extendfrom one side of the shank up through its central portion thereof; thestitching from the other side being made to overlap and interlock withthe stitching from the first side. The general manner in which thisstitching is accomplished is seen in Figs. 3, 4- and 5 and avoids thethrough stitch from side to side that otherwise would tend to split theshank portion.

The shank portion 13 is here constructed so as to be relatively long andnarrow and extends in a direction so as to support the thereon in theusualinanner.

outside of the human foot, and so is not pieced so as to extendcentrally under the arch of the foot. This involves a somewhat ofisetpositioning of the shank relative to the ball, which stitche'dto upper,imparts a rel-'a tively 'l'iigh degree of strength. The gradual wideningofthe shank heretofore employed where the shank merges into the hall ishere avoided; the shank being here connected with the ball by a contourwhich meets the latter rather abruptly on either side as indicated atpoints and 26.

While the shank is joined onto the ball 1at1'1erabi'uptly, it ispreferable to avoid sharpen-glee in shaping tl16 Seat so as to join withthe shank. To this end a igen'erallyovai or elliptical term of is shownas merging with "the 'shairk.' The sole when thus shaped and channeledis rovided with the usual petiphe'rai groove, ere shown at 527', and isthen ready to have theuppe'r sewed ;.The upper is stitched to the sole,shown in Fig. '2, with its re ersesi'c'le out. A'look'stitch, suehasindicated in broken line-s at '28, is 'gpr'eierably en1- ployeditosecuretlreoi the uppersin lie peripheijal groove by stitching "about the Iedge of the ball 'throuh to the base of the channel.

'i-issumin'g that the stitching operation to "take place, the "stitclistarts at some Convenient point on the sole, for example, adjafcent thenumeral 38in F g. 2, and iroceeds eoiniter cl'ockwis'e direction aboutthe hall of the sole untll the end of the channel is reached at 22. Apassage for "the stitch 1s ffow'cut by a curvedshoemakers aw'l through aside jo'f the "shank and made to come out through an. opening "neartheice'n'ti e 'o'i t he top, as indicated at "2%) in '3. Thestitch isthenfl'oo ped over "throngh an adjacent central hole "30, with the otherportion of the lock-stitch until the 'u'pp'er is completely sewed 'on to'oneside'of the shank. The last stitch 'de'pictec'l in of thisnharacterenters a holje at {31, which is "substantially at thepoint 24;, Where"the channel converges that is formed in the seat,

When the channel in the seat is reached, "t'he stitching of the rearportion of the upper, fine] ding the eoli'nterto the sole, is continuedin" he usual manner; the lock-stitch"effecting being shown in brokenlines at 32. Whenfthe stitching returns to the point 24 fromtheotherside'oi the seat, thesubsequent stitches are "niade to i'riterlocjk withthose first taken through "the shaiik. The stitch which is sentimentthis point is shown as inserted up thiou h a curved opening, the threadfronithe other side. In this manner,the

etc, are provided' The resulting structure of the shank with the upperssewed thereto, is depicted in cross section in Figs. 4 and 5, Where itis seen that the ina iigins 40 'oi 'the upper are closelyheld in theperipheral groove, Whereas the ."stitches pass up through the centralportion of the shank and ,grip with its top-side in a manner adapted tohold the sub-stratum of leather bound together in a compact state; thestrains from opposite sides being compensated for by opposing eachother.

Besides the strength thus imparted to the shoe totheshank,the-interlocking stitching tends to hold the parts properlytheir relative positions, thus avoiding ready breakage of the shankwhile the feet of the wearer, and also inte'rposes a certain resistanceto the turning of the heel uncer the foot of the wearer. It is also seen"that the long narrow shank here em- 'aioyed merginginto the ballabruptly, provides an arrangement whereby interlocking sti t-eh may beconveniently appliec'l' over a TGIQEtlVQ',

better to sui ip'ort the weight andhas a less thin portion at the shankof the shoe, which tends otherwise to receive excessive stiesses andshear off, i

A shoe having "ilfSO'lG to which an tip-per is secured in the mannerdescribed, is then 'tiirned,in order toeornplete the same, Thiscompletion is accomplishedby first securing a metallic stiiieni-ngmember as shown at -41, within the "shoe along the shank that extends11p into the heel; this ineta llic member hein'g secured to a separateshank -piece42 that is placed in the shoe and secured to the sole by'glue, nails for other convenient means. sole -43 s then attached in theiisu'al manner.

While "the interlocked stitching "here enifplo'yed is describedanc'lshown as emerging Since this one face is "merely relative and Wheiia matter choice in the finish of the shoe to be employed, the "term onece ithe'r p oyed.

Since certain changes may be m d i th above construction and(liii'ereiit embodiis employed in the claims to-describe ments of theinvention could be made without departing from the scope thereof, it isintended that all matter contained in the above description or shown inthe accompanying drawing, shall be interpreted as illustrative and notin a limiting sense.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is

1. In shoe constructions of the character described, the combinationwith a sole having aball portion, a shank portion, and a seat, saidshank portion being relatively long and narrow, of an upper stitched tosaid sole, said stitching entering said shank portion from oppositeedges and emerging therefrom in interlocked formation on one face.

2. In shoe construct-ions of the character described, the combinationwith a sole having a ball portion, a shank portion, and aseat, saidshank portion being relatively long and narrow, of an upper stitched tosaid sole, said stitching being a lock-stitch having a thread enteringeach of the opposite outer edges of the shank and arranged to beinterlocked along one face.

3. In shoe constructions of the character described, the combinationwith a sole having a ball portion, a shank portion, and a seat, saidshank portion being relatively long and narrow, of an upper stitched tosaid sole, said sole being provided with a peripheral groove in whichthe margin of said upper is secured by a lock-stitch, said stitch havingthreads entering said shank from opposite outer edges and interlockedalong one face.

a. In shoe constructions of the character described, the combinationwith a sole having a ball portion, a shank portion, and a seat, saidshank portion being relatively long and narrow, and offsetfrom thecentre line of the sole so as to meet the ball portion abruptly underthe arch of the foot, said sole being provided with a. peripheralgroove, of an upper, and a lock-stitch arranged to se cure the margin ofsaid upper in said groove, said stitch having threads entering saidshank from opposite edges and interlocked along one face.

5. In shoe constructions of the character described, the combinationwith a sole having a ball portion, a shank portion, and a seat, saidshank portion being relatively long and narrow and offset from thecentre line of the sole so as to meet the ball portion abruptly underthe arch of the foot, of an upper, and a lock-stitch arranged to securethe margin of said upper to the edge of said sole, said lock-stitchhaving threads entering the shank from opposite outer edges and arrangedto emerge and interlock along one face.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature.

SEYMOUR TROY.

